 The
first step was to re-saw the figured walnut plank into 1/16" shop sawn
veneers. Here they are stickered and air drying. |
 The
selected veneers where taped and edge glued prior to pressing in the vacuum
bag. |
 The edge
glued veneers where scraped and prepped for pressing onto the solid wood
substrate. |
 While
the tops where in the press, the leg stock was milled and drilled for the
solid gaboon ebony "booties" to be attached using dowels. |
 Using
paper cutouts, we laid out the curve for the serpentine aprons. |
 The
templates were carefully cut and shaped. |
 The next
step was to taper the legs on the table saw. This was done after the booties
were attached to give the entire leg a smooth taper on two sides. |
 The
joinery for the aprons to the legs is all mortise and tenon. The tenons were
cut on the table saw using a standard tenon jig. |
 The
cross grained Santos rosewood banding was all custom made by laminating shop
sawn veneers of maple and ebony together and then gluing them to the
rosewood blocks. These blocks were re-sawn into 1/16" thick banding strips. |
 The
1/16" X 1/16" grooves for the ebony and maple string banding were routed
using a Dremel mounted on a luthier's base and a 1/16" solid carbide spiral
bit. |
 The
rear apron was attached to the back of the side aprons by half blind
dovetails cut on the Leigh D4 jig. |
 The
upper leg mortises were cut using a router and an X-Y axis vice to move the
stock. |
 The
curve in the stringing is very sharp so to prevent breakage, the 1/32" thick
ebony and maple veneers were glued together at the desired curve. The 1/16"
resulting curved veneer was then sliced into strips to be inlaid in the
routed recess. |
 An oval
template was made to route the recess for the upper leg block inlays. |
 The
string bandings were glued into the grooves using hide glue and a fine
syringe. Each piece of banding was hand mitered by razor blade to create the
needed black/white joint at the corners. |
 After
the string banding and the oval inlays have been glued in, the rosewood
banding gets inlaid around the legs at the top and bottom. |
 The
wooden hinge that swings the gate legs gets its primary cut for the knuckles
by using the "box joint" method. |
 The
outer knuckle coves are cut with a forstner bit. The rest of the hinge work
is basically chiseled out by hand. |
 After
many trial and error fittings, the wooden hinge is drilled for the 1/4"
steel pin and it gets tapped into place. |
 The
serpentined apron faces are veneered with commercial veneers and here you
see the walnut burl and curly maple oval being fit and taped. |
 The
rosewood banding has been inlaid at the bottom of the aprons and preliminary
sanding is completed on all the table base parts. It is ready for a dry fit. |
 The
tops are made to overhang the apron's serpentine contour by about one inch.
A router template was laid out and cut on the band saw. |
 Both
tops were rough cut on the band saw and then routed to final shape using the
template. After this procedure was finished, a center groove was routed all
around the edges for the banding inlay. |
 The
shop-made ebony, maple, and rosewood bandings were re-sawn at 1/16" thick
and would not make the turn at the corners without breaking. So, we lightly
moistened them and used a heated pipe to bend them enough to make it around
the sharply curved corners. This really worked well. |
 The
bandings were inlaid into the routed groove around the top's edges. |
 This
rear view shows the double gate legs swung open on the wooden hinge ready to
support the top when it is unfolded to the open position. |
 A close
up of the detail work. |
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